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Firstly
ensure that the glass is clean, (free from dust,
wax, grease etc.), and try to avoid working in
extremely hot or cold temperatures. If large vinyls
are to be fitted, it may help if two people work
together.
You can either fit the vinyl wet or dry, (see
below.) Wet application should mainly be used
on larger items, or if you are new to the process.
(The water helps to make repositioning easier.)
Dry application is quicker, but much more care
must be taken to avoid air-bubbles etc appearing
in the vinyl.


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Wet
application:
Firstly moisten the glass, either using a spray-bottle
or sponge/non-fluffy cloth etc. (a very slight
amount of mild washing-up liquid can be added
if required, though it's not normally essential.)
Dry application:
No need for the above!
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Measure
down to the desired height, and place a piece of
masking tape etc. to mark the position, (on both
sides.)
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Carefully
remove the plain vinyl strip by lifting up from
the 'silicon release paper backing', trying to avoid
finger marks. Larger sheets may need two people
to work together. One to hold the vinyl by two corners,
and the other to carefully peel back the white,
glossy silicon backing paper. When it's nearly all
removed the second person should then take hold
of the remaining two corners of the vinyl. It can
now be taken over to the car window, keeping it
taut as you go, and avoiding fabrics, clothing etc.,
otherwise dust and fluff can be attracted to the
static of the vinyl.
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Place
it on the moistened glass and slide it into position,
lining it up with the pieces of masking tape.
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Once
you are happy with the positioning, moisten the
vinyl with water. Now you can start to flatten it
to the surface using a plastic squeegee, firm credit
card or a cloth. It may help if you hold the vinyl
very slightly away from the surface as you proceed.
(Note: If any roof aerials are obstructing, carefully
cut a slit in the vinyl using a craft-knife.)
Working from the centre outwards, press down
the vinyl pushing the water/air out towards the
edges. Try to avoid letting the vinyl slide about
as you are working. Carefully press the vinyl into
the edges of the rubber trim with either the plastic
squeegee or your finger nail.
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Carefully
trim off any excess vinyl with a craft-knife or
scalpel etc. (Try to avoid the blade from slipping
and cutting into the window rubber trim.) Then
re-flatten any areas if needed.
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Once
fitted, check for any water/air bubbles. If they
won't push out, use a pin or scalpel blade to carefully
pop them, then squeeze out the water/air. (Note:
It's always best to prick one edge of the bubble,
rather than the centre. You can then push the water/air
out towards the pinhole.)
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That's
the actual vinyl strip finished. If there is any
lettering to be fitted on top, proceed to the next
stage:
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Moisten
the sun visor strip, if required, and then carefully
remove the vinyl graphics by lifting up the 'application
tape' from the 'silicon release paper backing',
(making sure that all the vinyl decals are lifted
up with it), avoiding finger marks on the vinyl
itself. Larger graphics may need two people to work
together. One to hold the application tape/graphics
by two corners, and the other to carefully peel
back the white, glossy silicon backing paper. When
it's nearly all removed the second person should
then take hold of the remaining two corners of the
tape/graphics. It can now be taken over to the vehicle,
keeping it taut as you go, and avoiding fabrics,
clothing etc., otherwise dust and fluff can be attracted
to the static of the vinyl.
(Note: If any parts of the graphic refuses to
lift, simply place the whole graphic on a firm surface
and rub over the 'application tape' with your finger
nail to press the section back against the silicon
paper. Also see the 'Problem
solving' section for further details.)
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Tack
the graphics gently onto the visor strip, using
a tape measure at this point if required. If it
needs repositioning, quickly pull it off and try
again.
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Once
you are happy with the positioning, start to flatten
it to the surface using a plastic squeegee, firm
credit card or a cloth. It may help if you hold
the vinyl slightly away from the surface as you
proceed. Working from the centre outwards, press
down the vinyl pushing the water/air out towards
the edges. If using the 'wet' method, try to avoid
letting the vinyl slide about as you are working.
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If
fitted dry, the application tape can now
be carefully removed by peeling away from the panel
at 180 degrees, (flat on itself.) Note: If
fitted using the 'wet application' method,
you may need to wait for quite a while before removing
the application tape. (It is impossible to give
a precise timescale as no two situations are the
same. Cold temperatures, inticacy of the design,
and even the brand/concentration of any added washing-up
liquid can all have an effect on the drying-time.
It's best if you can check every so often to see
if the application tape can be carefully removed.
If the graphics have not yet adhered to the surface,
then it will need to be left longer.)
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Once
fitted, check for any water/air bubbles. If they
won't push out, use a pin or scalpel blade to carefully
pop them, then squeeze out the water/air. (Note:
It's always best to prick one edge of the bubble,
rather than the centre. You can then push the water/air
out towards the pinhole.) Job done!
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If fitted using the 'wet application'
method, please drive with caution for a short while,
or preferably leave the vehicle parked-up until
totally dry. Also, if at all possible, try to avoid
using windscreen wipers until the visor is fully
secure, (externally fitted versions.)
Please do not wash or polish windows for at least
one week.
(Thereafter,
normal washing can be done, but care must always
be taken, especially with dusters and sponges, around
the decal edges.) If using
a steam-cleaner, always keep the nozzle a reasonable
distance away from the graphics, and preferably
point it directly at them [90 degrees] - rather
than on an angle. (This helps to prevent water from
being forced sideways under the vinyl at full force.)
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INTERNALLY FITTED:
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Wet
application:
Firstly moisten the glass, either using a spray-bottle
or sponge/non-fluffy cloth etc. (a very slight
amount of mild washing-up liquid can be added
if required, though it's not normally essential.)
Dry application:
No need for the above!
Carefully remove the vinyl graphics by lifting up
the 'application tape' from the 'silicon release
paper backing', (making sure that all the vinyl
decals are lifted up with it), avoiding finger
marks on the vinyl itself. Larger sheets may need
two people to work together. One to hold the application
tape/graphics by two corners, and the other to carefully
peel back the white, glossy silicon backing paper.
When it's nearly all removed the second person should
then take hold of the remaining two corners of the
tape/graphics. It can now be taken over to the vehicle,
keeping it taut as you go, and avoiding fabrics,
clothing etc., otherwise dust and fluff can be attracted
to the static of the vinyl.
(Note: If any parts of the graphic refuses to
lift, simply place the whole graphic (still on its
backing) on a firm surface and rub over the 'application
tape' with your finger nail to press the section
back against the silicon paper. Also see the 'Problem
solving' section for further details.)
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Tack
the graphics gently onto the glass, using
a tape measure at this point if required. If it
needs repositioning, quickly pull it off and try
again.
If a coloured strip is also to be later fitted,
remember when positioning the lettering that there
will need to be enough space allowed for the vinyl
strip to go over the top. (So, for instance,
if you have a 6" [150mm] deep strip to be fitted
and 4" [100mm] lettering, then you will need
to make sure that there is approx 1" [25mm]
top and bottom of the letters to get everything
looking equal.)
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Once
you are happy with the positioning, start to flatten
it to the glass using a plastic squeegee, firm credit
card or a cloth. It may help if you hold the vinyl
slightly away from the surface as you proceed. Working
from the centre outwards, press down the vinyl pushing
the water/air out towards the edges. If using the
'wet' method, try to avoid letting the vinyl slide
about as you are working.
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If
fitted dry, the application tape can now
be carefully removed by peeling away from
the panel at 180 degrees, (flat on itself.) Note:
If fitted using the 'wet application' method,
you may need to wait for quite a while before removing
the application tape. (It is impossible to give
a precise timescale as no two situations are the
same. Cold temperatures, inticacy of the design,
and even the brand/concentration of any added washing-up
liquid can all have an affect on the drying-time.
It's best if you can check every so often to see
if the application tape can be carefully removed.
If the graphics have not yet adhered to the glass,
then it will need to be left longer.)
That's the actual vinyl lettering finished. If there
is any coloured strip to be fitted on top, proceed
to the next stage:
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Moisten
the graphics/glass area with water and then carefully
remove the plain vinyl by lifting up from the 'silicon
release paper backing', avoiding finger marks. Larger
sheets may need two people to work together. One
to hold the vinyl by two corners, and the other
to carefully peel back the white, glossy silicon
backing paper. When it's nearly all removed the
second person should then take hold of the remaining
two corners of the vinyl. It can now be taken over
to the car window, keeping it taut as you go, and
avoiding fabrics, clothing etc., otherwise dust
and fluff can be attracted to the static of the
vinyl.
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Place
it on the moistened glass, (over the top of any
pre-fitted lettering), and guide into position,
using a tape measure at this point if required.
Once you are happy with the positioning, start to
flatten it to the surface using a plastic squeegee,
firm credit card or a cloth. It may help if you
hold the vinyl slightly away from the surface
as you proceed. (Note: If the rear-view mirror
is obstructing, carefully use a craft-knife to cut
a slit in the vinyl, then work/trim around it.)
Working from the centre outwards, press down
the vinyl pushing the water/air out towards the
edges. Try to avoid letting the vinyl slide about
as you are working. Carefully press the vinyl into
the edges of the interior rubber trim with either
the plastic squeegee or your finger nail.
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Carefully
trim off any excess vinyl with a craft-knife or
scalpel etc., (trying to avoid the blade from
slipping and cutting into the window rubber trim.)
Then re-flatten any areas if needed.
Once fitted, check for any water/air bubbles. If
they won't push out, use a pin or scalpel blade
to carefully pop them, then squeeze out the water/air.
(Note: It's always best to prick one edge of the
bubble, rather than the centre. You can then push
the water/air out towards the pinhole.)
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Job
done!
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Please do not wash or polish
windows for at least one week.
(Thereafter,
normal window cleaning can be done, but care must
always be taken, especially with dusters, around
the decals and vinyl edges etc.)
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Notes
on removal of old self-adhesive vinyl:
Use
an electric heat gun or hot hair dryer to gently
warm the vinyl to be removed, taking care not to
overheat any glass or painted surfaces etc. Carefully
lift one corner of the vinyl, using a blade or window-scraper
etc., and peel away the vinyl. Repeat on all required
sections until completely removed. Any slight glue
residue left behind can easily be removed using
a 'Tar and Glue Remover', (which is available from
most car accessory shops), or white spirit.
Important: Please take
care when using the extremely hot heat guns, especially
where glass, paintwork and other similar surfaces
are concerned. They are quite safe and efficient
to use, providing care is taken. Always hold the
heat gun 'well away' from the surface, and your
own hands, while you work. Just enough warmth to
allow the vinyl to be softened is all that is necessary.
Always handle heat guns with care and keep them
away from children. Also always allow them time
to cool down afterwards before storing away.
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These
instructions, as well as any others on this site,
are merely intended as a guide to fitting our various
products. Although we endeavour to be as efficient
as possible with our instructions, and include as
many details as we can, we cannot be held responsible
for any problems, damages or indeed injuries, which
might occur. As with all DIY projects, the person
or persons carrying out the work is/are held responsible.
( Terms
and Conditions )
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